As someone who’s called Lisbon home since 2016, I’ve watched this city transform. The question of whether Lisbon has become “too touristy” pops up more and more, and it’s a valid one. If you’re sensitive to crowds or seeking an authentic experience, my perspective as a local might help you set realistic expectations for your trip.

Yes, Things Have Definitely Shifted…

Lisbon, at its heart, remains an enchanting city. However, many travel guides you’ll find out there might be painting a picture from a bygone era. When I first visited in 2016, it felt like Lisbon was in a sweet spot – vibrant and renewed, but before the massive influx of tourists and the gentrification that followed. Today, while still beautiful, the sheer volume of visitors has undeniably altered the city’s atmosphere. The historic center, in particular, often feels more like a staged backdrop for tourists than a living, breathing neighborhood, and that authentic local essence can be harder to find. It’s not that Lisbon isn’t worth visiting, but the soaring descriptions you might read often harken back to a previous chapter in its tourism story.

The Busy Spots Are Pretty Predictable

The good news is that much of the tourist congestion is confined to specific areas. If you’re looking to avoid the thick of it, certain neighborhoods are best explored at off-peak times or even avoided altogether.

Here are the areas that tend to be the most bustling:

• Baixa: The neighborhood right by Praça do Comércio.
• Chiado: This upscale hilltop area is popular with boutique hotels.
• Alfama: Especially around the Lisbon Cathedral and its scenic viewpoints.
• Bairro Alto: While quiet during the day, it truly comes alive and gets packed at night.
• Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira): Finding a seat here can be a challenge.
• Tram 28: Honestly, just skip it. It’s consistently overcrowded and not worth the hassle.

To get a different feel for Lisbon, consider staying outside the immediate tourist core. Areas like Saldanha and Avenida da Liberdade offer excellent hotel options, while Santos, Estrela, Anjos, and Graça are fantastic for apartment rentals. These locations are still conveniently close to the center but provide a more local vibe and easier access to less crowded areas.

Don’t forget about day trips! Nearby cities like Cascais, Costa da Caparica, Sesimbra, and Setúbal offer a refreshing change of pace and a chance to explore more of Portugal.

Mind the Cruise Ships

Another smart strategy to sidestep the crowds is to check the cruise ship schedule before you head out. While one ship might not make a huge difference, sometimes three or more massive liners, each carrying over 5,000 passengers, can dock simultaneously. When this happens, the older parts of the city, especially Alfama’s winding streets, can feel like a tourist rush hour, as passengers try to cram in all the sights in just a few hours.

To be frank, I’m not a fan of these “floating cities.” They create an artificial surge in tourism and contribute very little to the local economy. On days with multiple cruise ships in port, I recommend exploring areas beyond Alfama.

Winter: The Only True Low Season

Forget the idea of a “shoulder season” in Lisbon these days. While some guides might suggest May or September as quieter months, the reality is that the tourist flow is pretty constant now. From April right through to early October, it’s essentially one long tourist season, with August being the absolute peak due to European summer holidays. If you can, definitely avoid August and late July.

The only time you’ll genuinely experience a quieter Lisbon is in winter. It’s a lovely time for a visit; the climate is mild and pleasant (especially compared to Northern Europe), and the city feels more relaxed, provided it’s not raining.

Lisbon Airport: A Bit of a Challenge

Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport (Terminal 2 in particular) can be a bit chaotic. It’s struggled to keep pace with Portugal’s booming tourism, leading to frequent delays. I fly regularly, and it’s common to spend an extra 30-45 minutes on the tarmac due to air traffic congestion. While not usually catastrophic, it’s certainly not the smoothest experience.

On the bright side, the airport is incredibly close to the city center, just a 15-20 minute taxi ride away, and it’s well-connected by metro. There’s a new airport finally planned, about 30 km east of the city, but don’t expect it to be ready before 2034. Until then, anticipate delays, especially if you’re flying with budget airlines like Easyjet or Ryanair via Terminal 2.

Lisbon’s Tourism in a Nutshell

My main goal here is to give you an honest appraisal of Lisbon’s current tourism landscape from a local’s point of view. Lisbon has become a highly fashionable destination, so don’t expect deserted streets. While it’s not quite at the level of Barcelona or Amsterdam, it’s not far off, and because Lisbon is a smaller city with a population of around 550,000, the impact feels even more pronounced.

However, with realistic expectations, you can still absolutely love and fully enjoy Lisbon.

Debunking Some Common Myths

While I’ve touched on some of the challenges, I also want to address some common misconceptions and share a few positives. I’ve noticed some negative comments online that I feel are either misinformed or simply don’t reflect my experience.

Is Lisbon Safe?

Absolutely, Lisbon is a safe city. Petty theft, like pickpocketing, does occur, so always be mindful of your belongings. But serious crime is thankfully rare, and most locals feel comfortable walking around at night, even if there are a few areas tourists are unlikely to visit.

What About Those “Drug Dealers”?

Let’s clear this up: the tourist center of Lisbon is not overrun with actual drug dealers. Those individuals whispering offers of “marijuana, hash, cocaine” are typically scammers selling oregano and baking powder. It’s an old trick that plays on the misunderstanding that drugs are legal in Portugal (they are decriminalized, which is different). Just ignore them; they’ll leave you alone. The police can’t stop them because, technically, they aren’t selling anything illegal.

Is Lisbon Dilapidated?

Yes, in a way, it is. You’ll likely notice numerous abandoned or rundown buildings. This is due to a unique historical situation. Until about a decade ago (around 2015), old rental laws prevented landlords from raising rents on long-term contracts, sometimes meaning tenants paid as little as €100 a month for a two-bedroom apartment. With little to no income, landlords had no incentive to maintain properties. The 2008 financial crisis also played a part. While the law has been scrapped, the rebuilding process is slow, and an estimated 15% of buildings in Lisbon remain empty. You can view this as part of Lisbon’s raw charm, often adorned with incredible street art, rather than a sign of widespread neglect or crime.

Are There Any Positive Changes?

The rise in tourism and gentrification has brought challenges, particularly skyrocketing housing prices, making life difficult for many locals. The character of the old city center has undeniably changed. However, there’s hope for a better balance.

For instance, new Airbnb licenses were frozen in 2022, and a referendum on already licensed Airbnbs is expected in 2025. The city council has also moved to cut the number of disruptive tuk-tuks by 50%.

Beyond addressing issues, tourism revenue has funded significant urban renewal and beautification projects, extending beyond just the tourist zones. Lisbon is becoming greener, more bike-friendly, and generally a more pleasant place to live. Areas like Baixa, once deserted at night 15+ years ago, are now vibrant. Locals used to prefer living in outer areas like Benfica, Lumiar, or Parque das Nações over the old center.

Tourism is a double-edged sword, and its benefits aren’t always evenly distributed. My advice for visitors is to enjoy Lisbon wholeheartedly, but also to be sensitive to the challenges locals face.

• Always be a respectful tourist and avoid causing disturbances.
• Support local businesses and explore alternative attractions and experiences.
• A small piece of etiquette: avoid boasting about how “cheap” Lisbon is in front of locals who are grappling with rising rents and daily costs.

Final Thoughts

I hope this gives you a clearer picture of Lisbon today and helps you shape your expectations. If you’re looking to completely escape the tourist crowds, consider venturing into the Portuguese interior. It offers a vastly different perspective on Portugal, far removed from the bustling cities.